How to Make a Monotube - The Ultimate Tek Monotube Guide (2023)

The Monotube Tek technique is the starting point for most indoor mushroom growers. The technique is easy, fast and does not require complicated air and moisture solutions.

While the monotube method is often associated with the development of dung-loving Psilocybe* species such as P. cubensis (Coprinus comatus), it can also be used to produce edible dung-loving Agaricus species (such as white button and cremini) or Shaggy Mane .

Monotubes give you almost unlimited possibilities to create new techniques for growing fresh mushrooms! And now you want to change something. If you replace the loose manure substrate with a substrate of hardwood or wood chips, you can also grow oysters, berries, chestnuts, namecos and other Pleurotus mushrooms.

Let's discuss

  • 1 item required
  • 2 Step 1: Making mushroom seeds
  • 3 Step 2: Preparation of sterile bulk medium
  • Korak 3: Build your own Monotube
  • 6 Step 5: Filling the monotube with substrate for mass and inoculation
  • 7 Step 6: Colonize the Monotubes
  • 8 Step 7: Appearance of the fruit
  • 9 video driver
  • 10 final thoughts

Mandatory items

How to Make a Monotube - The Ultimate Tek Monotube Guide (1)
  • A clear plastic container (such as that supplied by Sterlite) or a pre-assembled tube
  • Liquid culture syringe or spore syringe
  • Inoculation bag of fully colonized seed or bag with injection hole
  • If you intend to make a monotube yourself, you will also need a waterproof black bag.
  • Single-tube filters with polyester filling or self-adhesive
  • Alcohol spray bottle and water spray bottle
  • hand drill
  • Otwornica 2 lane
  • Rubber gloves.
  • Loose substrate such as Boomr Bag for manure-loving species or Wood Lovr for those that prefer hardwood.

Possible upgrades for your monotubes

  • A hardwood-loving species
  • Controlled humidity
  • Humidifier with flexible hose/mist
  • A fan is required for air flow
  • Cycle Sat

Step 1: Creating mushroom seeds

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Cereal seeds are comparable seeds for mushroom growers. A sterile seed that is completely colonized by fungal mycelium is a spawning grain.

grain generationcan be obtained in several ways. If you are growing a common type of edible mushroom, you can buy seeds from grains that are fully colonized. If that's not too much of a hassle, keep in mind that depending on the species you choose, the substrate you use in the monotube will vary. You must first allow the mushroom seeds to settle before using them in the monotube.

If you want to grow a rare type of fertilizer-loving mushroom, you'll have to grow it yourself. To do this, you will need a sterile seed bag with an injection hole.

Sterile grain bags, also called seed bags, mushroom grow bags or grain substrate, contain a mixture of sterilized grains. Ours contains a mixture of moistened corn and wheat kernels.) A spore or culture syringe can be used with a self-healing port to inject bags.Ed Gljiva offers excellent syringes for liquid cultures if you are looking for well-known types of edible mushrooms.Ed Gljivaoffer spore syringes for medical use.

Familiarize yourself with the laws in your home or workplace! The use of hallucinogenic mushrooms is banned in some US states, including California. Note that although hallucinatory mushroom spores can be examined under a microscope, they become illegal once they develop hyphae, become mushroom seeds or mycelium, or are used to grow mushrooms.

If you are looking for pre-made spawn,

Before you start, clean your hands, the syringe needle, the injection bag and the inoculated area with isopropyl alcohol and don't forget to wear rubber gloves. Also, pay attention to the bag, looking for small tears or debris. Any tears endanger the sterility of the bag. Simply pour 2.5ml of liquid culture or a spore needle into the hole to immunize the seed pack into the infusion hole in clear (or at least exceptionally perfect) weather like our NocBox.

To ensure that a sterile bag of semen purchased online is not damaged in transit, it is safest to wait at least a week before injecting. If the bag shows any sign of contamination (usually green mold), it should be discarded.

if you needEdu Cogumeloreplacement, please contact us. Place the bag in a cool, shady place where it can settle. The temperature should be balanced between a high range of 75 Fahrenheit and a low range of 55 Fahrenheit. After a few days you will be able to see mycelium growth on the grain.

RECOMMENDED: The difference between the formation of fungi and fungal spores

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If you want to speed up the colonization process without opening the package, carefully finish the colonized seed and firm it with uncolonized seed as soon as it reaches three to six inches. A whitish mycelium will be visible from the infusion site.

Depending on the type, strength and type of your culture, your seeds will be ready from half a month to a month, and in some cases it may take longer. When you see that the capsule is completely white from the mycelium, your seeds are ready to use.

Step 2: Preparation of sterile bulk medium

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The type of mushrooms you grow in the tub, the bulk substrate mix can change completely. If you aregrowing wood-loving mushrooms, it is recommended to look for wood chips such as oak or maple. If you grow fertilizer-loving species, continue reading this article.

Species that, like manure, we recommend using oursProduct in the form of a Boomr bag. You won't have to struggle with keeping track of your own materials and making horse manure at home, as it has been created through several long periods of Agaricus testing, is easy to use and comes completely ready and clean.

The ideal manure is the one that decomposes for at least six months. If you want to make your own fertilizer, you can buy coconut coir at most hydroponic and urban gardening stores. Note that the best horse manure should be obtained from horse farms that provide riding advice etc. When making your own manure substrate, the least complex mix is ​​one that contains a combination of 50% coir and 50% horse manure.

At this stage, you can cook or bake the pasta base to pasteurize it. Both components will be mixed and the mixture will be hydrated to the "field boundary". When you squeeze it as hard as possible, a few drops of water should flow from the handful of substrate. When checking hydration, add more coconut, because assuming you add more, the mixture will be hydrated. you can guess that you need more water, add it gradually.

If you use the baking method, simply preheat the oven to 170 degrees and prepare the stock in bulk on foil-lined baking sheets for at least 2.5 hours.

For the steam method, cook the substrate in a pressure cooker or you can steam it until it reaches a temperature of 160-180 degrees Fahrenheit. The substrate should be packed in filter bags. The substrate should be bagged in a filter bag before pressure cooking or steaming until it reaches a temperature of approximately 160-180 degrees F. Allow the bulk substrate to cool completely before use.

Korak 3: Build your own Monotube

How to Make a Monotube - The Ultimate Tek Monotube Guide (5)

Monotube can be made by several methods and using different materials. Increasingly, large Tupperware containers, such as those produced by Sterility, are being used. If you choose to use such a clear plastic container, we recommend lining the bottom of the monotube with an opaque plastic bag to prevent fungal growth around the edges or bottom. Although extremely difficult to harvest, these mushrooms derive important nutrients and energy from the substrate. It's best to prevent them from sprouting in the first place and let the mycelium concentrate all its efforts on growing the mushrooms in the conveniently accessible areas of the tub.

We can use different methods and materials to make our monotube, for example, the most commonly used large Tupperware containers. We usually recommend lining the bottom of the monotube with an opaque plastic bag if you choose to use the clear plastic container made by Sterilite. This will prevent the growth of fungus on the edges and bottom. These fungi consume nutrients and energy from the substrate and are extremely difficult to harvest. In the easily accessible parts of the tub, allow the mycelium to focus all its efforts on growing mushrooms, and ideally prevent them from sprouting.

We found out during the writing of this post and the accompanying video step by step that it is better to paint the outside of the monobath than to use a primer. The mycelium of the fungus will begin to peel away from the edge as it begins to colonize one tube, but will also continue to adhere to the sheath. In this way, it is possible to prevent the development of a microclimate that favors lateral fixation. Despite our findings that this only slightly reduces the likelihood of side pins, a light shield at the bottom of the monotube is generally unnecessary.

  1. For starters, buy your favorite trash can and make sure it has a lid!
  2. You can use a drill adapted to make larger holes or a hand drill with a two-inch hole saw. The holes will be offset in the opposite direction, to prevent the plastic from cracking, drill holes around the monotube. The monotube must have at least one hole at each end and one hole every 20 centimeters along its length. To fill a monotube, its openings must be directly above the base layer, directly above the liner, or directly above any painted part of the pot.
  3. Use single-tube filters to seal the holes. This will reduce the amount of airborne particles entering the tub, while loosening the substrate.
  4. If you are using a piping bag to work on your design, fold the package so that the top of the lining is mostly on the side of the plain piping and the piping bag is snug against the plain piping. This is where the collective substrate should be placed.
  5. Now you are ready to grow mushrooms in your monotube, voila!

Step 4: Clean your workspace and monobath

At this stage, you are absolutely sure that your mushroom culture will receive all possible benefits. This is a very important part! Spray your hands on the work area, the scissors you can use to open the seed bag, etc. and sterilize the entire tub by filling a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol.

After spraying the outside of the seed bag, rub the rubbing alcohol all over the substrate bag.

A clean environment is very important, so make sure that the area where you vaccinate is hygienic. Keep in mind that if you have pets, the room has been vacuumed recently, but not recently enough that there may still be turbulence in the air or particles in the air.

Close all windows. Close all the doors. Take anti-infective measures.

Step 5: Filling one test tube with bulk substrate and inoculation

Now it's time for the fun part! The volume of your monotube will determine how much substrate and seed you will use. A layer of substrate 3 to 5 inches thick is ideal. One or two medium-sized tubes should be easily inoculated with a 3-pound injection bag.

For a sterilized individual tube or liner, if you are using one, you will need to sprinkle about 1 inch of substrate first. Check that the bulk substrate is still working at full capacity by trying to squeeze a few drops of water out of it. Before filling the barrel, add boiled water to the mixture in case it dries up during pasteurization.

Then add some colonized grain powder. After another centimeter of substrate, more seeds should be added. Add more layers of loose media between spawning until you reach the required depth.

Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the cap of the single tube.

For safety, use a paper towel to apply an additional amount of isopropyl alcohol to the edges of the monotube just above the inoculated bulk medium.

Once the monotube is fully colonized, put the cap back on and don't take it off again!

Keep the single tub in a comfortable but not overheated room, away from strong sunlight and artificial light.

Step 6: Colonize the Monotubes

To see how colonized it is, check the trash can daily. White spots will begin to spread from any grain spawn. Eventually, they will completely surround the surface of the bulk substrate. You should be able to see small particles of fungus. This indicates accelerated colonization and sufficient moisture for a normal process.

You should look for traces of trapped mushrooms. It usually appears as a small clump of thick white mycelium consisting of white hyphae growing upwards from the surface of the substrate.

Colonization rates of tree-loving species will vary. Most dung-loving species take two to three weeks to settle into the tub.

Step 7: Appearance of the fruit

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You should cover the monotubes when you start to notice pins or knots in the bristles. Now you can remove the lid from the trash can without any scratch.

Spraybowl of water until the 100% coconut shell shows signs of hydration and apply a light 1/2 to 1 inch layer of coconut over the bowl. Recent studies linking vermiculite contamination to asbestos would result in the withdrawal of recommendations by some manufacturers to use vermiculite to cover monopipes. Coconut fiber is a safe and equally effective substitute.

Keep the lid of the tank slightly open to provide additional oxygen and spray the tub with water daily. In order for the mushrooms to develop on the right side, make sure that there is enough light in the container. Light still supports the healthy, directional growth of fungi even though they do not photosynthesize like plants.

When the mushrooms reach the desired stage, collect them. In most species this occurs before the eyelids are pressed together.

Related: Fruit Block Sets FAQ

video driver

final thoughts

Monotubes offer many possibilities for growing mushrooms! Now you too can learn this technique by simply following the above 7-step process.


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